Regular and frequent inspections of your Automatic Bilge Pump for marine is a must and should be included in the vessels overall preventative maintenance program. This helps you know when to replace worn or damaged components (bad float switches, deteriorated hoses) before they fail. Before you set sail, its always a good idea to make sure the pump has power and is working properly, keeping in mind that testing should verify the actual pumping of water overboard, rather than (in the case of electric pumps) simply switching the pump on and listening for motor operation.

You'll need to fix it pronto, before heading out, and perhaps at the ramp. Here's how to find the problem and solution quickly.

Bilge pumps are the unloved cousins of boats. No one gives them much thought until they fail to operate, and then you could be, literally, sunk! There are only a few things that can go wrong with an electric bilge pump, as there are limited components. This flow chart will help you check each component, find the problem, fix it, and get on your way again as swiftly as possible.

Most pumps have an automatic float switch that detects when water is in the bilge, and automatically turns on the pump. There should also be a switch at the helm to override the automatic float switch, enabling you to turn on the pump manually. (There are other types of pumps not covered here that may present different issues, but this example should cover most contingencies.)

Small amounts of water in the bilge are normal, so don't sweat it if you see a little puddle in the bilge. But any more than an inch or two could be a problem. Get to know your boat and find out what's normal; a rising water level should be investigated without delay.

1. Helm Switch

Try the manual switch at the helm. If the pump runs, then the problem is most likely with the float switch.

2. Float Switch

Check the float switch for debris in the bilge preventing it from operating. If you find any, clear the dirt away, turn helm switch back to automatic, and lift float switch to check operation.

3. Battery

Check that the battery switch is in the "on" position if pump doesn't operate with the helm switch in either manual or auto modes. With the battery turned on, check to see if any of the other electrical equipment operates. If not, then the battery may require charging.

4. Fuse

If the battery switch is on and other equipment operates, the fuse may have blown. Replace with a new fuse of the correct rating after checking for cause. Marine Boat Yacht Bilge Pumps are often connected directly to the battery. Check battery connections and correct if loose or corroded.

5. Wiring

Check all visible cables for signs of corrosion or breaks. If wiring looks good but pump still won't run in automatic with float switch elevated, the switch may need replacement. Wire nuts like these have no place on board. Use crimped connections.

6. Short/Overload

If there's a burnt smell in the vicinity of the pump or it's hot to the touch, then this could indicate an internal short or an overload caused by a jam. Disconnect pump from battery and replace.

7. Impeller

With power off and the pump withdrawn from its mounting bracket, try to turn the impeller by hand. It should rotate freely with a finger. If impeller can't be turned and there's nothing visible jamming the impeller, then pump is most likely in need of replacement.

8. Screen

 While the pump is removed from the bracket, clear the screen of any dirt, hair, or debris that prevents water from reaching the impeller.

9. Outlet Hose

If pump runs but very little water comes out, this could be caused by low battery voltage. Another cause could be a kinked, split, partially disconnected, air-locked, or blocked discharge hose. Check hose and reroute, reconnect, or replace as required.